Cyclades · Greece
The meltemi base. Delos five nautical miles away. Naxos downwind.
01
The meltemi blows here NNE F4–6 through July and August, which is why the Cyclades have whitewashed walls and small windows. Mykonos town is a deliberate maze — designed in the 16th century to confuse pirates — and still confuses tourists. Little Venice, the windmills, the chapel of Paraportiani (four churches fused into one) are the obvious stops; the back lanes after 11pm are the rest of the island.
02
Kiki's Taverna near Agios Sostis beach — no electricity, no reservations, charcoal grill, hour's wait. Nikolas Taverna at Agia Anna for the family-run lunch. M-Eating on Kalogera street for the elevated Greek cooking. Avoid the harbour-front menus without exception. The Mykonian kopanisti — peppery, fermented cheese — is the local thing to ask for.
03
Settled in the 11th century BC, but Mykonos never produced anything except sailors and exporters of the sacred Delos pilgrims. The Venetians, the Ottomans, the Russians (briefly) took turns. Tourism arrived in the 1950s with Jackie Kennedy and a Paris-Match cover; the island has not been the same. The history people come for is on Delos, 5nm away, which has been uninhabited since 88 BC.
04
Agios Sostis on the north coast is the quiet beach — no facilities, no umbrellas, one taverna. Fokos for the wild and empty. Elia and Platis Gialos for the organised. By boat: Delos (5nm) for the ancient city — day-trip only, no overnight mooring; Rhenia, the uninhabited island next to Delos, for the lunch anchorage; Naxos (32nm) downwind for the long sail.
05
August is non-negotiably busy; June and September are the months. Bus to Ano Mera, the inland village — the monastery of Panagia Tourliani has the carved-wood iconostasis. Avoid the day trips advertised in town for Delos; charter a small boat at Tourlos and you'll have the ruins almost to yourself early. The petrol station closes for siesta.
Nearby
Ancient ruins · UNESCO
The birthplace of Apollo. An entire ancient city preserved at sea level — no one has lived here since 88 BC. The museum contains the original marble lions of the Terrace of the Lions.
Day-trip only — no overnight mooring permitted. Best in early morning before the tour boats.
Island · Town · Beaches
The largest and least spoiled of the Cyclades. The Temple of Apollo's doorway stands alone above the harbour — the sanctuary was never finished, work stopped when the patron died.
The mountain villages in the interior — Halki, Filoti — are worth anchoring an extra day for. Best beach: Plaka, 7km south.
Small island · Anchorage
The Small Cyclades — a fishing village, a white beach over the headland, two tavernas, no cars. The post-meltemi September anchorage.
Anchor in 4m sand off the village. Pori beach: walk 15 minutes over the hill. Nothing else happens, which is completely the point.
Volcanic caldera · Cliffs
The 300m caldera walls visible from 20nm off. Anchoring inside the caldera is one of the Med's most dramatic passages.
Anchor in Ammoudi bay — the caldera anchorage below Oia. Hold can be unreliable; check before sleeping. Water taxi to Fira.
Wind & seasons
The meltemi runs NNE at F4–6 through July and August. June and September are the windows — consistent 15–20 knots, manageable seas. August 8-Bft pin-down days happen. The route is built downwind from Mykonos to catch it on the quarter.
