Čiovo Island
0nmIsland · Beaches
Connected to Trogir by bridge. Pine-forested coves on the south coast — Okrug Gornji, Šaldun bay.
Anchor in the bay south of the bridge. Walk or dinghy to the village tavernas in Arbanija.

Central Dalmatia · Croatia
A UNESCO island-city connected by two bridges. More intact than Split, less visited.
01
A 2,300-year-old island-city connected to the mainland by a bridge, and to Čiovo island by another. The cathedral of St Lawrence is the great work: a 13th-century Romanesque-Gothic portal carved by Master Radovan, naked Adam and Eve flanking the door — unusual nerve for 1240. The Kamerlengo fortress at the western tip looks out toward the open sea.
02
Konoba Trs for the family-style courses and the home wine. Don Dino for the fritto misto and the courtyard. The market on Vukovarska, behind the cathedral, opens at six — Dalmatian olive oils, anchovies in salt, pršut from Drniš. Pošip and Plavac Mali are the local pairings; the same as Split, with the same logic.
03
Founded by Greeks from Issa (modern Vis) in the 3rd century BC. The Romans took it, the Byzantines lost it, the Hungarians and Venetians fought over it for three centuries. Venice won and ruled 1420–1797. The town never grew beyond its island, which is why it's the best-preserved medieval town on the Adriatic. UNESCO-listed since 1997.
04
Okrug Gornji on Čiovo (a 10-minute walk) is the closest swim. Šaldun bay, on the same island, is quieter and pine-shaded. By boat: the Blue Lagoon at Drvenik Veli (12nm) is the genuine article — turquoise sand-bottom water, arrive before 10am; Šolta's Stomorska (20nm) for the slow island; Split's Bačvice (25km by sea) for the picigin sunset.
05
The cruise excursions arrive from Split mid-morning. Be on the walls by 8am or after 5pm. The summer evening passegiata down Trogir's Riva is what every Adriatic town used to be before the airbnb era. Park outside the walls — there is no parking inside, and you don't want it.
Nearby
Island · Beaches
Connected to Trogir by bridge. Pine-forested coves on the south coast — Okrug Gornji, Šaldun bay.
Anchor in the bay south of the bridge. Walk or dinghy to the village tavernas in Arbanija.
Beach · Anchorage
A sandy bay between Drvenik Veli and Krknjaši with turquoise flat water — the Adriatic Blue Lagoon that earns the name.
Arrive before 10am. Afternoon ferry swell. Pick up a mooring or anchor in 6m sand.
Island · Quiet
The unhurried island — olive groves, Stomorska cove, the taverna that has been there for 40 years.
Best approach to Stomorska from the east. The honey and olive oil are the things to bring home.
City · UNESCO
The Roman emperor's retirement home. A living city that grew inside a palace — inhabited for 1,700 years without interruption.
Walk into the palace at dawn before the tour groups. The Peristyle square at 7am is another place entirely.
Wind & seasons
Central Dalmatian Maestral — identical pattern to Split. The Kaštela Bay provides additional shelter from the Bura. June and September are ideal; the marinas are not yet full.